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Fence Posts and Holes

Archived in Landscape, Construction, Outdoors | 1 Comment

In building a strong wood fence, you must always remember that the foundation for that fence is your posts. No matter how strong you might build the panels, the fence will not stand the test of TIME and the elements if your posts are not planted firmly into the ground.

Like all of my advice, this information comes from personal experience and research, and I welcome comments or additions to clarify or improve this entry.

The Holes

No matter how you dig them, the holes for your new fence posts should be sufficient to balance out a number of competing factors. This includes the height of the fence, the dimensions of the post, frost, wind, and soil composition. My rule of thumb is that the hole should be at least half the height of the fence and twice the width of the longest side of the post. For example, a six-foot fence using 4 inch by 6 inch posts, should have MINIMUM three-foot deep and twelve inch wide holes.

The Base

To ensure (a) proper drainage at the very base of your holes, (b) proper support for your posts, and (c) longevity of your materials, you should place a base of coarse gravel or road crush about four to six inches deep (compacted) at the base of each hole.

The Form

I use concrete to ensure that the posts I place are there for the long haul. Hand mixed (just add water) concrete comes in convenient bags and dries in a day or two. Ensure that your hole is wide enough (see above) so that the concrete has enough depth to avoid cracking and breaking away from the post. Compact the concrete, removing extra air pockets, using a rod or two-by-four. For aesthetics, I always leave a few inches of space at the top of the concrete for decorative stone placed after the surrounding area has been finished and the fence built.

The Posts

It’s tough to find posts that are not qualified outdoor wood, such as treated lumber or cedar. I use treated lumber for my posts, ensuring that they are square to the property-line and perpendicular to the ground. Level and brace, lifting the post and dropping it into the hole a few times to ensure compaction at the base. Secure to the ground or existing structures to limit movement while the concrete dries.

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Deck Construction: Part 3

Archived in Landscape, Construction, Do-it-Yourself | 1 Comment

The best advice I can offer on finishing your new deck stairs and railings is to PLAN. And, whatever you do, wherever you start, whoever you manage to have help you, do not underestimate the power of:

(A) Shopping Around

Not all steps and railings are created equal, and not all packages are going to work with your deck, for your needs, in your municipality. Go look at some samples and try out a few tests of durability, wobble, rust resistance, heat resistance (barbecue anyone?), and safety.

(B) Sitting Around

That’s what you are going to use it for, after all. How will you use your new deck space? Where do you want to sit and relax? On a long step in the sun or tucked into a shady corner? Do you want to feel open and breezy, or closed in and private? Try it out on a friend’s deck and see what you prefer. Plan from there.

The rest of this is based on my experience:

HANGING STRINGERS

Depending on the material you use for your steps, you should have your stringers spaced roughly two-foot on center. This means for a single staircase, you need two stringers, but for a longer (perhaps full-length) set of steps, you’ll need more. Stringer should be hung using brackets along the facing board, nailed with joist hanger nails (not screwed) and supported at the bottom with wood or preferably a concrete stone to reduce vertical movement into the ground.

STEPS

This may seem obvious, but use the best wood you can find, in the fewest pieces you can find. This is going to take a lot of abuse over the life of your deck, and you want quality here (even if you cheaped-out elsewhere!) Fasten securely with long screws, at least three per stringer for a solid base.

POSTS

Some places will try to sell you a closed-bottom railing with no posts. Avoid it. Use posts whenever possible BOLTED to the frame of your deck for maximum stability. These go on first, and the rest of the build should be straightforward around them. Remember: measure twice, cut once!

Please remember: I’m just a guy who has done this work for myself, once. This is just my experience, so do more research before you start. I welcome any comments or updates that anyone with more experience might provide. Cheers!

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Read more posts by Gary W (About the Author)

del.icio.us Digg it Earthlink Furl iFeedReaders ma.gnolia Maple.nu Netvouz Netscape RawSugar reddit Scuttle Shadows Simpy Spurl StumbleUpon Wink Yahoo MyWeb

Posts that might have similar content:

Gary’s Construction Anecdotes >> For your convenience, here are some of the articles I've written on my landscaping and contruction experiences. As usual remember: I’m just a guy who has done this work for myself, once. This is just my experience, so do more research

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